How to EQ hi-hats
For most hi-hats, high-pass aggressively at 400Hz, cut 2dB at 1kHz to remove clank, and add 1.
For most hi-hats, high-pass aggressively at 400Hz, cut 2dB at 1kHz to remove clank, and add 1.5–2dB shelves at 8kHz and 14kHz for sparkle and air. Hi-hats live in the top half of the spectrum, anything below 400Hz is usually bleed from other drums.
- High-pass: 400Hz, 12dB/oct slope
- Cut: 1kHz, −2dB, Q 1.5, removes metallic clank
- Boost: 8kHz, +1.5dB, Q 1.0, sparkle
- Boost: 14kHz shelf, +2dB, air
High-pass aggressively at 400Hz
Hi-hats have almost no useful content below 400Hz. Anything below that is bleed from kick, snare, and toms in the close mic. A 12dB/oct slope at 400Hz cleans this completely. For deep open hats, drop to 300Hz; for tight closed hats, you can push as high as 500Hz.
Cut 1kHz to remove clank
Cheap or close-mic'd hi-hats often have a metallic 'clank' or 'tin can' character around 800Hz–1.5kHz. A 1.5–3dB cut at 1kHz with a moderate Q (1.5) removes the clank without making the hat sound thin. Sweep around to find the worst frequency.
Add sparkle at 8kHz
The crisp attack and shimmer of hi-hats lives at 6–10kHz. A 1–2dB boost at 8kHz with a wide Q makes the hat feel sharp and rhythmically clear. For a lo-fi or analog feel, skip this and let the hat sit duller.
Add air with a high shelf
A 1–3dB shelf above 12kHz adds the expensive, polished feel. Pair with light compression on the hat for a tighter, more present sound. If the hi-hat is already bright (like a sampled trap hat), skip this and let it sit naturally.
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